Robust's Wine Guide Speaks to Newbies, Experts

Wine drinkers know the moment well: The wine list, sometimes more of a pamphlet, sometimes more of a novel, arrives and is opened to reveal rows of choices, often delineated between red or white, European or American.

What happens next has a lot to do with the stage of wine knowledge the reader occupies. If new to the experience, one might look for familiar names or just scout pricing, while a veteran probably enjoys the chance to search for a special vintner, region or opportunity to pair with an anticipated dish.

in Webster Groves has created a dynamic wine guide, capable of engaging the reader on any level, from newbie to expert. Okay, perhaps a wine “expert” might not be too engaged, but Robust owner Stanley Browne knows what that person would probably look for also, being an expert himself.

Browne’s calling card announces his status as a Certified Sommelier (CS), and a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), but to add to these credentials, Browne explains he spent 10 years in the wholesale wine business with A. Bommarito Wines, and has 18 years of experience in the hotel and restaurant industry, working in four different countries.

“I’ve spent many years combining wine experience with food experience, and in those years I saw so many customers struggle with wine lists in terms of what to order and what to look for, so I wanted to make something more approachable, less intimidating,” Browne said.

The result is a user-friendly guide, which is a one-stop-shop for Robust patrons to learn about wines on hand, (by the glass, and by the bottle), as well as wine flights organized by “mouth-feel”, wine/food pairings and a glossary of terms offering a chance to refresh and educate oneself on the nuances of Oenology (pronounced ee-nol-uh-jee), or the study and science of wine.

Browne’s wife, Arlene, manages the marketing and PR for the business, and among other things, her tweets invite customers to visit Robust to sample everything from wine, to retail gifts, and the restaurant’s delicious food items.

Small plates make up the food menu and include a crab cake offering, which is served with a roasted garlic aioli, sea scallops served atop creamy white risotto, and a baked Camambert dish topped with balsamic strawberries.

Each of the plates may be paired with recommended wines, and the guide opens with descriptions of wines based on body-style, organized according to the bar’s Robust Factor (RF) rating.

Numbered one through eight, the RF of a wine identifies its central expression with a 1 being “bubbles," an RF of 2 being “crisp," 3 denoting “mellow," and 4 making the wine “luscious."  The next three Robust Factors focus on reds, with 5 indicating “soft-heartedness," 6 making a wine “generous," and 7, “robust." Just as the RF of 1 pays much attention to Champagne, 8 concentrates on sweet wines, including Rieslings and Sauternes.

I chose to concentrate on the RF 7 category, hoping it might yield some bold Cabernet Sauvignons, and the promise of the rating was fulfilled, as Browne offered his first choice, a 2006 Cellar Arts Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée ($14 by the glass) labeled as “The Robust Blend." It is a “house” wine of sorts in that it is produced by Browne in a partnership with Julien Fayard and Cal Nicholson. Fayard has had a hand in crafting some beautiful cult Cabernets while working for well-known winemaker Philippe Melka.

The Cellar Arts blend includes Petit Verdot, Syrah, Cabernet, and Merlot, and opens with a layer of vanilla sharpened by pine nut, leading to a well-rounded finish of dense chocolate, and appreciable tannins that help it pair well with the rib eye bistro steak small plate.

Next up in the robust category was a 2004 Argentinean Algodon “Gran Reserva” Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec blend ($10 by the glass), in which the earthiness of the Malbec was nicely enhanced by the structure of the other grapes. Finally, Browne offered a 2008 Twenty Rows Cabernet Sauvignon ($14 by the glass), which started with a pleasing aroma concentrating on blackberry, and finished more softly than the previous wines.    

Despite my natural tendency to pursue the “robust” segment at the Robust Wine Bar, Browne pointed out that the other seven wine groups offer some delicious pours, and with Valentine’s Day around the corner, perhaps the “bubbly” factor is one to explore, soon.

Or, just follow the Robust wine guide, and enjoy the journey.